Fernando Barroso - Espacio Ferial, Tres Cantos

It was six o'clock on Wednesday night when the WhatsApp message came through: "For any bouzouki and guitar players out there. You might want to check this megalithic showman".

‘Yeah, you might but then again, you might not.’ I thought to myself. 

It was cold and dark out. I was tired, travelling the next day and the couch seemed to be gradually getting more comfortable, softening, warming and hugging me tighter with every second of indecision that ticked by. I ummed and aahed about whether to go then looked over at the dog. Curled up under a blanket, well tucked in with his nose nestled in a wee nook he’d made himself. His eyes rolled up and over to meet mine. They were telling me to stay in. They always do. 

The couch was warming under me, the dog lounging, and I had a cup of tea on the go. My wife was already in her comfy pj bottoms, little chance of her coming out. The gig was a good 40 minutes away. Everything was starting to make me think that I’d be better off staying in and, to be honest, that was starting to seem like a good idea. It never is though. It's always better to get out. Too many evenings are easily spent in, on the couch, cosy and comfortable. I had a niggling feeling that this time I might miss something good and after all, I recently left my afternoon/night shift job to free up the evenings again, get out to gigs, reconnect with music, check out events and meet more musicians. I opened up the WhatsApp message again. A simple poster with a lad holding the neck of a bouzouki, resting his chin behind its head.

Fernando Barroso.

I'd come across his name before somewhere deep down a YouTube rabbit hole while I was looking for Irish bouzouki players in Spain. One of those lockdown or post-lockdown days where it seemed a logical thing to be looking for. I remember reading about him. A virtuoso, one of the best. ‘Oh actually, maybe I do want to go to this after all,’ I thought.  My eyes glanced over the poster another time. 

€5. ‘A gig for a fiver. An insanely talented musician playing for a fiver. I've no excuse, I'm going.’

***

I got to the new multi-purpose Espacio Ferial in Tres Cantos five minutes before showtime. There were people inside, gathering at what looked to be a local, community event. The audience all seemed to know each other. I wasn’t sure whether it was an open gig or not. Quite obviously not from around here, I walked up to the door and was greeted with a warm welcome, a firm handshake,genuine smiles, a chat and appreciation for having turned up. A lovely start.

As I strolled in, every eye I caught glistened, framed by crows feet and quite a few unfamiliar faces greeted me. I found a seat and sat down. Pleasantly surprised at the welcome I received, I wondered what was going on. You see, it’s not often that, as a foreigner, you feel so welcome in Spain. Don’t get me wrong, you’re not unwelcome. but this atmosphere was not what I’d grown used to in Madrid.

I looked up and saw the stage. It was set. Two chairs, a Portuguese mandolin, an Irish bouzouki, a couple of small Brugera amps and a guitar. In the backdrop, a Galician flag. To the right,between the two chairs, another with the words Centro Gallego de Tres Cantos. It all started to make sense. The community, the smiles, the warmth. ‘Tonight, I’m in Galicia.’

*****

Javier Franco comes out to introduce the artists, close friends of his. He’s unassuming, engaging and quite visibly very passionate about music and in particular these musicians’ art. There’s a certain warmth in the room despite the biting winter cold setting in outside - a relaxed, friendly, social atmosphere.

Fernando Barroso and Miguel Veras grace the stage. The duo, as humble and understated as they come, take their seats to start the show. They need little more than the instruments, two cables, and two amps.

The gig starts with a melodic piece on the Portuguese mandolin. A slow, stripped-back version of Polkita Cruda. It's hard to describe how mesmerising the sound is; the mandolin and guitar transporting everyone from their busy lives to somewhere serene. Somewhere calm, peaceful, a place of beauty painted before us through every note played. Truly hypnotising.

Some beefier numbers follow with round, chugging rhythmic backings expertly provided by Miguel Veras. Some of these tracks feel rockier in terms of the underlying rhythmic base. There’s a percussive element to the palm-muted playing but the arpeggiated notes softly picked on the guitar keep the melody well supported. I realise I’m in the presence of serious musicians or at least a part of me is while the other floats off in a dreamy daze.

A few tracks in, the Irish bouzouki comes out. It's a beautiful instrument. Handmade by Andy Tobin of Tobin Instruments. The warmth, depth and weight of the tone filled the room. Fernando Barroso’s choice of an octave string setup gives it a distinctive sound. Highs that cut through and add a certain bright sharpness and attack to the tone and lower octave strings that round out the sound. It’s easy on the ears: an absolute treat.

His latest album is called Man, Galician for hand. On the cover, his daughter's handprint. It's available on his website, on the usual streaming platforms and man, oh man, is it worth a listen.

Fernando Barroso blew me away. Well, no, that's not quite true. Miguel Veras and Fernando Barroso blew me away. It wasn't the impressive show of dexterity, fretboard and picking speed that did it. It was the musicality, the tone and touch these two displayed that was next level. 

Music is magic. Vibrations sent through the air that hit your body, move tiny hairs in your inner ear and shoot straight to your brain, your heart and your soul. It's somehow more magic when that music is stripped down to the bare essentials. When it’s done right, it’s spellbinding. Fernando and Miguel do it right. They have a beautiful understanding of each other's playing and though the speed, excitement and festivity they convey through their upbeat numbers is infectious, it's the choice of melodic lines and the use of dynamics that is truly special. The touch and tone Miguel has is second to none. Talk about feeling! And to add to that, there is absolutely nowhere to hide. Two musicians, two instruments and a room in which every note played rings out crystal clear. 

The beauty of world-class musicians is that they don't need anywhere to hide. They don’t want anywhere to hide. They're at their best when in uncomplicated, raw environments. That's where this music is born too. You can hear the ebb and flow of the tide, the waves gently breaking against rocks and lapping the side of fishing boats. You could smell the salt on the breeze, the morning grass, feel the wind in your hair and hear the clink of mid-morning cups of coffee, beers, wine. You could see the rolling hills, cattle grazing, horses running wild, sheep and goats gathered on hillsides. It was filmic. Pure music evoking pure emotion. A truly special moment, one I feel privileged to have seen, heard and felt.

As soon as the music finished, tables appeared and were quickly lined with Galician cheese, chorizo, jamón a la gallega, Estrella Galicia, Galician wine and the members of the Centro Gallego de Tres Cantos gathered, catching up around food. Smiles, laughs, kids scooting around with dogs in their arms, a real community feel. I felt it was my cue to head off, I stepped out for a minute but spotted traditional drums making their way across the car park. OK, I might stay another minute. 

A group gathered in a corner of the room. The community has a music group that meets weekly. Javier Franco leads the sessions. Pipers, drummers on both small frame drums and bigger bass drums lined up. A bouzouki, the Galician flute and a saxophone player joined. Those who weren’t playing formed dance circles, instinctively launching into dancing traditional folk dances. The young and the old mixed naturally, faces again creased with smiles, laughing, eyes glinting. Beautiful to watch. 

I know these things come naturally to communities. The Irish are similar. Gigs give way to sessions, to chats, laughter and general craic. Chats turn into sing-songs and sessions, but there's something special about stumbling into something like this blind. An absolute delight. I can not emphasise enough how happy I was to have gone to this show. 

Fernando Barroso and Miguel Veras, I'm a convert. Thank you for a wonderful night of live music, for your art and thank you to the Centro Gallego for putting on this event. Magic.